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Ruby in Jewellery: Meaning of the Red Stone, Types and How to Choose

Ruby in Jewellery: Meaning of the Red Stone, Types and How to Choose

Introduction: the king of gemstones

In 2015, a ring called "Sunrise" sold for a record-breaking sum at a major international auction in Geneva. Twenty-five carats of Burmese ruby in a setting by one of the leading Paris haute joaillerie houses. It set a world record price per carat for any ruby and for any coloured gemstone.

Why does it fetch such prices? Because a quality specimen is rarer than a diamond of the same size. Gemologists call it the king of gemstones for good reason. Within the "big four" (diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald), red corundum is the only one that can exceed the price per carat of the finest diamond.

This is despite the fact that the ruby and the sapphire are exactly the same mineral: corundum. The difference lies solely in trace elements that give colour. Red means chromium; everything else is sapphire. Those 1-2% of chromium transform ordinary corundum into a legendary gem that has been hunted for millennia.

This guide covers what the stone is, how to choose one, why "pigeon's blood" is a gemological standard rather than marketing, and why a red corundum in jewellery is always more than just a beautiful colour.

Which ruby suits you?
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What matters most to you?

Ruby jewellery: what to choose

Ruby ring

The most significant form.

Earrings

Pendant

Bracelet

Brooch

A vintage category. Art Deco, Victorian and Edwardian brooches set with these stones frequently appear at auction. Collectible value.

Types of ruby by origin

Burmese (Myanmar)

The benchmark for quality, especially from the Mogok Valley.

Characteristics:

Burmese specimens certified by a leading independent gemological laboratory achieve record prices at auction.

Mozambican

The modern alternative. The main mines are in Cabo Delgado province, operated by major international mining companies.

Characteristics:

Stones from Mozambique became the primary alternative to Burmese material throughout the 2010s and 2020s.

Thai (Siamese)

Historically significant. The Chanthaburi mines are now closed.

Characteristics:

Ceylonese (Sri Lanka)

Characteristics:

Tajikistan and Afghanistan

Rare but high quality. Often comparable to Burmese material.

Madagascar

A modern source. Average quality, accessible price.

Other origins

Tanzania, Kenya, Greenland. Small deposits with specific characteristics.

The geology behind the colour

Ruby belongs to the mineral group of corundum, which is aluminium oxide (Al₂O₃). In chemically pure form, corundum is colourless. Colour appears only when trace elements are present. Chromium at 1-2% produces the characteristic red. Vanadium adds a violet undertone, which explains the "impure" violet cast seen in some Thai material.

What makes the Mogok Valley so distinctive is the presence of chromium together with its chemical context. Mogok rubies form in marble deposits that are unusually low in iron. Iron suppresses fluorescence, so Mogok stones, with minimal iron, exhibit a vivid red fluorescence under ultraviolet light. In daylight they appear to glow from within. This is the physical origin of what traders have always described as an inner fire.

Mozambican rubies, by contrast, form in amphibolite-type metamorphic rock. They contain slightly more iron, which slightly dampens their UV fluorescence. Side by side with a Mogok stone under daylight, the Mozambican often appears vivid but less luminous. Under artificial light the difference narrows considerably. For most everyday settings, both look magnificent.

Chromium also does something unusual at the atomic level: it causes the stone to emit light in the deep red spectrum when exposed to ultraviolet radiation. This strong red fluorescence is one of the diagnostic tools gemologists use to separate ruby from red garnet and red spinel, neither of which fluoresces the same way.

Hardness and toughness: why rubies wear better than expected

Corundum has a Mohs hardness of 9, second only to diamond at 10. In practical terms, this means nothing in daily life will scratch a ruby except another corundum or a diamond. Quartz, which makes up the bulk of common dust and grit, has a hardness of 7, so ruby surfaces stay pristine through years of everyday contact.

What matters equally is the absence of cleavage. Diamond, despite being the hardest mineral, has perfect cleavage along four planes, meaning a sharp blow at the right angle can split a diamond cleanly. Corundum has no significant cleavage. Its toughness, the resistance to fracture under mechanical stress, is excellent. This combination of extreme hardness and good toughness makes ruby one of the most practical stones for daily jewellery wear.

The exception is glass-filled material. When lead glass has been forced into fractures, the composite is no longer purely corundum. The glass has different thermal expansion behaviour and chemical resistance. Ultrasonic cleaning vibrations, steam heat, or contact with acids (including some household cleaners) can degrade the fill. This is the primary argument against buying glass-filled rubies.

The 4Cs for ruby

Colour

The most important factor. The finest shades:

Pigeon's blood. The gemological term for deep red with a slight blue undertone. Typically Burmese. Luxury investment segment.

The term "pigeon's blood" originates in the Mogok trade but has since been formalised by leading gemological laboratories, including the Gübelin Gem Lab and GRS (Gem Research Swisslab), as a specific quality designation. To qualify, a stone must reach a defined threshold of saturation, tone, and red fluorescence. It is not a marketing phrase: laboratories issue certificates explicitly stating "pigeon's blood" when the criteria are met.

Vivid red. Saturated red without undertones. High premium category.

Moderately saturated red. Mid-tone, standard. Mid-premium.

Undertones:

The boundary between ruby and pink sapphire is the subject of ongoing gemological debate. Both are chromium-bearing corundum. The convention, agreed by most laboratories, is that if the dominant impression of the stone is red, it is a ruby; if the dominant impression is pink, it is a pink sapphire. The dividing line is partly subjective, which is why two respected laboratories can sometimes classify the same stone differently.

Clarity

These stones normally contain "silk", fine rutile crystals that create a characteristic inner glow. This is a mark of naturalness.

Large visible inclusions, however, reduce value. The ideal is "eye-clean" with minimal silk.

Unlike diamonds, where even minute inclusions visible under magnification affect grading, rubies are traditionally assessed for eye-clean clarity. The reason is practical: virtually all natural rubies contain some silk, and demanding diamond-level clarity would eliminate almost the entire natural supply. The silk itself, when evenly distributed and fine, is not a defect but a feature, contributing to the stone's luminous character.

Cut

Oval the most common. Cushion classic for engagement rings. Round for studs. Heart for romantic pendants. Emerald cut for modernist minimalist rings. Cabochon for star rubies (see below).

Cutters prioritise colour over geometric perfection. A ruby cutter will sacrifice an ideal proportion to keep more of the deep red zone in the finished stone. This is why rubies are often slightly asymmetric or deeper than the "ideal" proportions of a diamond. For a buyer, this means judging a ruby primarily by colour, not by cut grade.

Carats

Specimens above 2 carats of fine quality are rare. 1-1.5 carats is the engagement standard. 0.3-0.5 carats for studs.

The price-per-carat for rubies increases sharply at certain size thresholds: around 1 carat, around 2 carats, and above 3 carats, the price jumps disproportionately. A 2-carat ruby of the same quality costs more than four times a 0.5-carat stone. This non-linear pricing reflects the dramatic rarity of larger clean material.

Star ruby

A distinct category. A stone exhibiting asterism, the optical effect of a "star" on the surface under a point light source.

The cause is the same rutile silk that creates the glow in faceted rubies, but in higher concentration and with precise crystallographic orientation. The rutile needles align along the crystal's hexagonal axes at 120-degree angles to each other. Under a point of light they reflect simultaneously to produce a six-rayed star that appears to float across the surface as the stone is tilted.

Characteristics:

Star rubies are worn as pendants or as the focal element in vintage rings. The quality of a star is judged by three things: sharpness of the rays, symmetry of the star, and the evenness with which the star sits centred on the dome. The finest examples come from Burma and Sri Lanka. A twelve-rayed star, caused by two overlapping star systems from different rutile orientations, is exceptionally rare and commands a significant premium.

Ruby treatment

Almost all rubies on the mass market have been heat-treated. This is standard practice: heating to approximately 1800°C improves colour and clarity.

Types:

Untreated with certificate: luxury investment. Heat-only treated: mainstream market.

Avoid: glass-filled stones (cheap imitations) and beryllium-diffused material (too much intervention).

How heat treatment works and what labs detect

Standard heat treatment dissolves some of the rutile silk and allows chromium atoms to distribute more evenly, resulting in better colour saturation and fewer visible inclusions. The process has been practiced for centuries: craftsmen in Thailand's Chanthaburi region developed sophisticated wood-fire kiln techniques as far back as the 17th century and the region became the world's heat-treatment capital long before the science was formally understood.

Modern laboratory detection relies on microscopy and spectroscopy. Untreated rubies retain their original "silk" network intact: sharp rutile needles with defined edges and characteristic stress halos. Heated rubies show partly dissolved needles with blurred edges. Gemologists can detect this under darkfield illumination. Glass filling is identified by its lower relief under the microscope, its distinctive flash effect under polarised light, and by the presence of gas bubbles trapped in the filler.

Beryllium diffusion is more insidious: the element penetrates the corundum lattice itself and cannot be detected without laser ablation ICP-MS analysis, which only a handful of top laboratories can perform. This is why a certificate from an accredited lab (GIA, Gübelin, GRS, SSEF) is not optional for any significant ruby purchase.

SACRED HEART FIRE PENDANT 1SACRED HEART FIRE PENDANT 2SACRED HEART FIRE PENDANT 3SACRED HEART FIRE PENDANT 4SACRED HEART FIRE PENDANT 5
SACRED HEART FIRE PENDANT$75.00
TREE OF LIFE PENDANT 1TREE OF LIFE PENDANT 2TREE OF LIFE PENDANT 3
TREE OF LIFE PENDANT$58.00
ANILLO SAGRADO CORAZÓN 1ANILLO SAGRADO CORAZÓN 2ANILLO SAGRADO CORAZÓN 3
ANILLO SAGRADO CORAZÓN$50.00
ETHNIC HORN PENDANT BROWN 1ETHNIC HORN PENDANT BROWN 2
ETHNIC HORN PENDANT BROWN$55.00

What the ruby symbolises

Love and passion. The primary meaning. The red stone of the heart, of passion, of life force.

The blood of life and vitality. Ancients called it "congealed blood". A symbol of health, energy and longevity.

Royal power. Used in coronation regalia across many nations. A symbol of authority and might.

Protection in battle. In medieval Europe, rubies were set into swords and armour. The stone was believed to protect the warrior and heal wounds.

Pigeon's blood. The colour of blood is itself a symbol of vitality. In China, "pigeon's blood" carries the meaning of life.

July (birthstone). The classic July stone in the Western tradition.

15th and 40th anniversary stones. Traditional anniversary gemstones. The ruby anniversary is 40 years.

Solar plexus chakra (Manipura). In Hindu tradition, linked to the solar plexus. Personal power and will.

The Sun (planet). In Vedic astrology, the Manik is the stone of the Sun. Brings success, fame and leadership.

Protection from poison. A medieval belief: red corundum grows dull in the presence of poison. Hence the tradition of setting it in the cups and tableware of noble households.

Immortality. Burmese tradition: the stone is buried with warriors to ensure awakening in the next life.

Symbolism across cultures: a broader picture

The Sanskrit texts of ancient India are the oldest written source for the ruby's symbolic status. The Ratnaraja, the "king of gems", appears in Sanskrit literature with detailed descriptions of its qualities and its association with the Sun deity Surya. The text describes the finest rubies as resembling the inside of a pomegranate seed, a comparison that captures both colour and internal luminosity.

In Chinese court culture, red stones (a category that included ruby, spinel, and other red minerals before modern mineralogical distinction) were used as marks of rank. First-grade Mandarin officials wore red stones in their button insignia. The association of red with good fortune, prosperity, and longevity in Chinese culture meant that ruby-type stones were among the most sought-after gems in the imperial court for over a thousand years.

Islamic tradition also records the ruby with particular reverence. Medieval Arab scholars, including Abu Rayhan al-Biruni (973-1048), described the ruby in detail in his mineralogy treatise, noting its hardness, its places of origin, and the belief that it protected its wearer from melancholy and bodily illness. The gem trade routes from India through Persia to the Mediterranean made ruby one of the most culturally significant stones across the Islamic world.

In medieval European alchemy, red stones were associated with the philosopher's stone and with the transmutation of base metals. The ruby's red colour, interpreted as the colour of fire and of blood, placed it at the centre of alchemical symbolism long before modern gemology existed. This is reflected in the number of historical "rubies" in European royal regalia that turned out to be spinels: the desire for the symbolism was so strong that colour was all that mattered, mineral identity secondary.

History of the ruby

Antiquity

Sumerian literature (3000 BC) mentions a "red stone". While definitive proof is scarce, archaeological finds in Assyria and Babylon show red corundum in jewellery.

In India it is known as ratnaraj, "king of precious stones" in Sanskrit.

Rome and Byzantium

Romans prized red stones, though many were actually garnets or spinels, which were confused with true corundum until the 18th century. The "red stones" in royal crowns, including what was long believed to be a ruby in the British Imperial State Crown, often turned out to be spinels.

The Black Prince's Ruby: a British royal story

The stone known as the Black Prince's Ruby, set into the Imperial State Crown and on display at the Tower of London, is one of the most famous examples of this historic confusion. A vivid red cabochon weighing approximately 170 carats, it was worn by Edward of Woodstock (the Black Prince) at the Battle of Agincourt in 1415. For centuries it was considered one of England's greatest rubies. Scientific analysis eventually confirmed it is a spinel.

The story illustrates how deeply the idea of the red royal stone is embedded in British history, regardless of mineralogy. The Tower of London collection remains one of the finest settings for studying royal gem traditions.

The Burmese era

From the 13th century, the Mogok Valley became the principal source. Trade flowed from Burma through India to China and Europe.

Mining in Mogok is documented from the 6th century BC, making it among the world's oldest continuously worked gemstone deposits. The valley sits at about 1,000 metres elevation in the Mandalay region, and the marble geology creates the precise low-iron conditions that produce the glowing, fluorescent red that became the world standard for fine ruby. Mogok miners traditionally worked by artisan methods, following gem-bearing veins through the marble. The region still produces stones, though output has declined significantly from its 19th-century peak.

Indian jewellery

The Mughal rulers (16th-18th centuries) were ardent collectors. Shah Jahan used red stones in his crown and in the carved decorations of the Taj Mahal. Mughal specimens were frequently engraved with calligraphy.

The Victorian era

Red engagement rings were fashionable in Victorian England, especially the "you and me" style (ruby next to diamond). This tradition of combining red with white stones has deep roots: the contrast of red and colourless stones was a deliberate aesthetic that predates Victorian England by centuries, appearing in Indian Mughal jewellery and in earlier European goldsmithing. The Victorian "you and me" ring formalised it as an engagement symbol, with the ruby representing passion and the diamond representing enduring clarity.

The present: declining supply

Burmese production has fallen and is often linked to ethical concerns (conflict zones). US sanctions policy changed the market. Since 2021, international sanctions against Myanmar's military government have made ethically sourced Burmese material effectively unavailable through legitimate channels. Several major haute joaillerie houses publicly ceased sourcing Burmese gems following the 2021 military coup.

Mozambican supply (from 2009 onwards) replaced Burmese material as the main source of ethically sourced premium quality. The Montepuez Ruby Mining operation, which began systematic extraction in Cabo Delgado province in 2011, became the world's largest ruby producer within a few years. Mozambican stones are certified through established supply chains and are the ethically straightforward choice for 2026 buyers.

"Sunrise" (2015)

A haute joaillerie ring with a 25-carat Burmese stone became the most expensive coloured gemstone in history at a major international auction in Geneva.

2026: red in fashion

The bezel-set ring is the leading 2026 engagement trend. Rose gold with red stones is especially popular with Generation Z and Millennial brides.

Ruby in Vedic astrology

The Manik is the stone of the Sun (Surya).

Beneficial for:

Important caveats:

In India, the stone is traditionally worn as a ring on the right hand in gold.

Ruby as an engagement ring: the historical argument

Before 1947, when a major marketing campaign established "a diamond is forever" as the standard for engagement rings in Western markets, the tradition was far more varied. Red stones with diamonds were a popular engagement symbol throughout Victorian England. The style known as the "you and me" ring, a ruby set alongside a diamond, was a deliberate pairing of passion and purity, and was considered particularly romantic.

The mid-20th century shift toward the diamond solitaire interrupted this tradition, but it did not erase it. The red engagement ring has been returning steadily since the 2010s, driven in part by a desire for alternatives to the uniform diamond standard and in part by genuine appreciation for the historical depth of the choice. A ruby engagement ring is not an eccentric deviation but a return to a centuries-old practice.

For a 2026 purchase, the ethical picture matters: a certified Mozambican stone offers both visual quality and supply-chain transparency. Burmese material, while often superior in colour, carries significant ethical complications given Myanmar's current political situation.

How to distinguish a genuine ruby

From glass

From spinel

Spinel was historically confused with red corundum. Differences:

Red spinel is itself a beautiful stone that has recently attracted serious collector attention. Its historical confusion with ruby is not a reflection of low quality but of genuine visual similarity. A well-cut red spinel from Tajikistan or Burma can rival a low-grade ruby in appearance, at a fraction of the price.

From garnet

Certificate

For any significant purchase, always obtain a certificate from an independent international gemological laboratory. It specifies:

The leading laboratories for ruby certification are GIA (Gemological Institute of America), Gübelin Gem Lab (Switzerland), GRS (Gem Research Swisslab, Switzerland), and SSEF (Swiss Gemmological Institute). Each has slightly different grading conventions, but all provide origin determination and treatment disclosure.

Laboratory-grown versus natural rubies

Laboratory-grown

Created by these methods:

The Verneuil process was developed by French chemist Auguste Verneuil and produced the first commercially available synthetic corundum. Verneuil rubies are chemically identical to natural corundum: the same aluminium oxide with chromium. Under a microscope they show characteristic curved growth lines and gas bubbles rather than the angular silk and mineral inclusions of natural stones.

Flux-grown rubies grow more slowly in a molten flux, developing inclusions that more closely resemble natural stone inclusions, making them harder to detect without specialist equipment. Their appearance is often described as more "natural" by connoisseurs.

Advantages: price, ethical origin, predictable quality. Disadvantages: no investment value, sometimes "too perfect" for connoisseurs.

Simulants

Commonly sold under the ruby name:

How to tell the difference

Ruby care

This is one of the hardest stones (9 on the Mohs scale). It withstands a great deal.

What you can do

What to avoid

Combinations

Red corundum pairs beautifully with:

Long-term care

A ruby in a ring setting will need professional inspection roughly every five to ten years, primarily to check the prongs or setting claws rather than the stone itself. Corundum does not degrade over time, but gold and platinum prongs gradually wear thin. A loose stone is at risk of being lost, not of breaking. The stone itself, with no glass filling, will look the same in a century as it does today.

For antique or vintage pieces, avoid commercial jewellery cleaning solutions containing ammonia or acids unless you are certain no glass filling is present and no gilded or plated elements will be affected. Warm soapy water and a soft brush remain the safest universal method.

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Who suits a ruby

July birthdays. The birthstone of the month, and the boldest entry in the classical birthstone year.

Leos. The solar stone for a solar sign.

As an engagement ring alternative. A Burmese or Mozambican stone with a halo setting is a magnificent alternative to diamond.

For a 40th wedding anniversary. The ruby anniversary.

Red lovers. If there is a red dress in your wardrobe and red lipstick on your lips, this is your stone.

Entrepreneurs and leaders. The Indian astrological tradition.

As a first meaningful gift for a teenage girl. A small red stone in studs is a classic "first significant" jewellery gift.

For Valentine's Day. Ideal.

As a protective talisman. An ancient tradition.

For the woman who refuses a standard diamond. The ruby engagement ring is a choice with centuries of precedent, and it says something specific: passion, not convention.

As a gift for a Leo woman turning 30 or 40. A ruby pendant or ring marks a decade birthday with colour and symbolism that a diamond cannot replicate.

For a man who wears jewellery with intention. The signet ring or cufflinks with red stone accents carry aristocratic weight, from Mughal emperors to Victorian gentlemen.

FAQ

Why are rubies so expensive?

A quality specimen is rarer than a fine diamond of the same size. Supply is declining. Demand, particularly for Burmese material, outstrips supply. The rarity increases sharply with size: stones above 2 carats of fine quality are genuinely scarce globally.

Is ruby the same mineral as sapphire?

Chemically yes. The difference is the proportion of chromium. The accepted gemological standard sets more than 0.5% chromium as ruby; less is pink sapphire. The boundary is subjective in some cases. Two respected labs can sometimes classify the same border-case stone differently.

What is "pigeon's blood"?

A gemological term for deep red with a slight blue undertone. Traditionally Burmese, from Mogok. Formally defined by major gemological laboratories as a specific quality threshold involving colour saturation, tone, and the presence of red fluorescence. Not a marketing phrase.

Which is better: Burmese or Mozambican?

Burmese is more prestigious as an investment. Mozambican is ethically sound and often visually indistinguishable to a non-specialist. For a 2026 purchase, Mozambican is recommended on both ethical and practical grounds: similar visual quality, established supply chain, no sanctions complications.

How much should a good ring cost?

Laboratory-grown 1 carat in silver: mid-range. Natural Mozambican 1 carat in 18K gold: premium-luxury. Certified Burmese 1+ carats: luxury investment. The price difference between a heat-treated and untreated natural stone of the same quality can be 30-50%.

Is a glass-filled stone a fake?

Not a fake, but a significantly degraded stone. Glass fills cracks and visually improves the appearance. The problem: it can break down under heat, ultrasound or aggressive chemicals. Avoid buying such stones: they require special care and their long-term appearance is unreliable.

Can it be worn every day?

Yes. Hardness 9 withstands almost anything. The only caution is with glass-filled stones, which are best avoided entirely. A quality heat-treated natural ruby in a well-made setting requires no special daily handling.

What about garnet as a budget option?

Garnet is far less expensive and visually similar. It will not replace ruby for investment or prestige, but for stylish everyday wear it is a legitimate option. Almandite garnet is the closest in colour; pyrope garnet is a vivid red; rhodolite garnet has a pleasing violet-red tone. None fluoresces the way ruby does.

Is ruby appropriate for a man?

Yes. The male tradition is a signet ring or cufflinks with red stone accents. Not feminine, but aristocratic. The signet ring with a carved ruby or a cab-set red stone has precedent from ancient Rome through the Indian Mughal court to Victorian England.

How do I care for a ruby ring?

Remove before sport, avoid knocking against hard surfaces. Clean with warm water and mild soap. Professional cleaning and prong check by a jeweller every 5-10 years.

Does fluorescence affect how the stone looks?

Yes, visibly. Under daylight and in natural outdoor light, a strongly fluorescent Mogok ruby will appear more intensely red than the same stone under indoor artificial light. The sun's UV component activates the chromium fluorescence and makes the stone glow. This is why experienced buyers always view rubies outdoors before committing to a purchase.

How do labs determine origin?

Through a combination of chemical fingerprinting (trace element ratios measured by laser ablation), spectroscopic analysis, and microscopic examination of inclusions. Each origin leaves a characteristic chemical and structural "signature". Burma and Mozambique are usually distinguishable, though stones from certain new deposits can be ambiguous. The certificate states the origin with whatever degree of confidence the laboratory can support.

Famous rubies

"Sunrise". 25-carat Burmese in a haute joaillerie ring. Sold in 2015 for a record price for any coloured gemstone, at a major international auction in Geneva.

DeLong Star Ruby. A 100-carat star ruby from Burma. Stolen in 1964 and later recovered. Now at the American Museum of Natural History.

Black Prince's Ruby. Set in the British Imperial State Crown, displayed at the Tower of London. In fact a 170-carat spinel, not a true ruby. A historical gem of England, worn by Henry V at Agincourt.

Timur Ruby. A 361-carat spinel (also not a true ruby), in the British Royal Collection. Engraved with the names of Mughal emperors, allowing its ownership history to be traced across five centuries.

Liberty Bell Ruby. An 8,500-carat star ruby carved in the shape of the Liberty Bell. On museum display.

Anne Cox Chambers ruby. A 6.04-carat Burmese pigeon's blood stone. Sold at a major international auction in the top premium category.

Edwardes Ruby. A 167-carat rough crystal from Burma, one of the largest known uncut examples. Held in the Natural History Museum, London.

Conclusion

Red corundum is not simply a beautiful stone. It is a symbol of love, passion, power and life force, prized for millennia. Indian maharajas collected it. British monarchs set it in crowns. The red stone has an extraordinary depth of history.

For an engagement ring it is a bold choice, not the standard diamond, but one with immense historical resonance. For daily wear it is an exceptionally durable stone that will last decades. For investment, a certified Burmese ruby is one of the few assets that has consistently appreciated.

About Zevira

Zevira is based in Albacete, Spain. The ruby is a classic engagement ring stone in the Spanish tradition (alongside diamond), particularly for the 40th anniversary, the ruby anniversary.

What you can find at Zevira with ruby:

Every piece is handcrafted by a master goldsmith, with personal engraving available. We work with 925 silver and 14-18K gold.

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